25 Mar 2020
Anuji Gunasekara
Skincare 101
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What is Hyaluronic Acid? Why do I need it?

The trends of cosmeceutical ingredients come and go. However, Hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan remains a linchpin of effective skincare.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally existing substance in the human body. It is most abundant in the skin. Skin’s HA, which plays an essential role in the synthesis of the extracellular matrix accounts for 50% of total body HA. Scientific studies have evidenced that topical application and administration of HA exhibit outstanding Nutri-cosmetic efficacy and thus to be used as a key component of cosmetic products.

It is a simple but diverse polysaccharide that can thus reach a polymer length of 2.5–17.5 μm. Currently, many skincare formulations contain lower molecular HA weight (50-500kDa) which are prepared using cleaving high-molecular-weight HA into small fragments, so that it can penetrate deeply into skin.

What are the benefits of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) in skin care?

1. A potent skin hydrator

It provides incredible moisture because its unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules, hyaluronic acid is categorized as a humectant. It is believed that one gram (or 0.03 oz.) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters of water approximately. Therefore, the complexion champion has a potent ability to hydrate the skin, which is especially beneficial for dry, dehydrated skin.

As we age, the level of hyaluronic acid in skin depletes, and losses moisture resulting in drier, rougher, and saggy skin. By applying topically of HA helps to promote skin’s moisture content and moisture retention due to its restorative abilities.

On the other hand, when the lipid barrier is further enhanced and protected by hyaluronic acid, the skin is better able to shield itself against environmental stimuli, age-factors, and pollutants. As the skin is not combating with these factors, the skin remains brighter, resilient longer, and less wrinkled.

2. Anti-aging benefits

When we age, skin loses its suppleness and starts to sag revealing fine lines and wrinkles become more apparent. Hyaluronic acid can promote moisture content beyond comparison and re-energize the skin’s outermost layers. It boosts firm facial contours for a more youthful and dewy appearance. Skin is left softer, smoother, and radiantly hydrated. This improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

In the meantime, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has been reported to have novel features, such as free radical scavenging and antioxidant activities which protect the skin from the environment, sun exposure, and harsh chemicals. Therefore, applying hyaluronic acid helps to plump up the skin and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles to look firmer, less saggy, and more toned skin.

3. Helps wound healing

Apart from being a potent hydrator, HA is a safe and efficacious ingredient to be used in the skin. It has been proven that HA displays in all stages of the wound healing process not only as a component of the wound environment but also as a factor that actively modulates tissue regeneration. This naturally leads to healthier cells and a more radiant complexion.

Hyaluronic Acid Derivatives:

The salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives have all the same benefits, except it is more easily absorbed.

Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Other things you may want to know about HA:

1. How does HA work?

Hyaluronic acid draws moisture from the deeper layers of skin and drives it to epidermis especially in dry conditions. Therefore, it is imperative to follow up with a moisturizer as it is supposed to be a comfort blanket for dry skin.

2. Is HA safe for all skin types to use?

Yep! HA tends not to cause allergic reactions since human bodies also produce it. In other words, it is safe for everyone to use every day.

3. How much percentage of HA do we need?

For optimal results, apply a product containing 1-2% Hyaluronic Acid.

As HA is soluble in the aqueous phase, water-based formula is the best option when HA presents as the primary active ingredient.

4. Can I combine HA with other active ingredients, like Vitamin A or C...?

It is suggested to use Vitamin A (retinol and retinoids) or Vitamin C (L- Ascorbic acid) and HA products separately because they are most effective at different pH levels.

However, if your product contains vitamin C derivatives like our Vitamin C Brightening Facial Serum, you can combine with HA containing products because both work best at a pH of 5.5-6. Read more...

It is always recommended to wear sunscreen SPF 30 or above for more excellent protection.

Reference:

Anuji Gunasekara

Cosmetic / Formulation Chemist

M.Sc. in Medical Microbiology, B.Sc. in Applied Science (major in Chemistry and Botany) and more than 8 years of industrial experience. In her career, she has formulated 600+ new products, reformulated existing products and created experimental studies to resolve problems during projects.